089. Don't Settle For Mediocre Pants
A Capsule-Like Approach To Buying Trousers Worth Their Weight In Gold
This week, we continue our exploration of the capsule-like wardrobe. In previous sends, I covered underwear, socks, and basic tops (there will be a Part 2 to this one, as there were many questions). Today, I turn my attention to another foundational but slightly obscure category: bottoms. Pants are notoriously the most unsatisfactory category to shop for. Cue the tens of thousands of videos on TikTok of women sulking in a changing room after trying on jeans. Skirts and shorts are highly season-dependent, so we often buy too few or too many.
As usual, this letter isn't about prescribing a universal formula but rather about helping you build an intentional collection that serves your needs. Whether you live in trousers, swear by skirts, or mix it up depending on the season, your choices reflect your lifestyle and personal aesthetic. I've found that the ratio of different types of bottoms varies dramatically between individuals - and that's exactly as it should be.
We’ll start with a deep dive into the pitfalls of trouser shopping. I make suggestions for identifying the styles to try on for a less frustrating experience. I share the costly mistakes to avoid when shopping for trousers, some fit guidelines, and the construction details that separate exceptional pants from mediocre ones. Then, I cover the personal nature of pant-wear and break it down into categories. I share the pairs that are on my heavy rotation. Finally, I discuss pants that significantly elevate your wardrobe and where to find them. My current uniform of statement trousers, a baby tee, and a cashmere sweater didn't come about by accident - it was the result of discovering architecturally minded brands that approach pants as more than leg coverings. We want more than basic, half-cooked designs.
The Pitfalls of Trouser Shopping
I've made every possible mistake when shopping for trousers, so let me save you some time. Here are things to watch out for:
Choosing What To Try On
Think about the silhouettes you’re trying to create. Classic styling rules will have you creating balance; pair slimmer or straight-leg cuts with oversized tops and wide-leg ones with fitted tops. But you may prefer a head-to-toe streamlined, tailored, or even 1950s-inspired silhouette. I personally like to wear an all-over, (strategically) slouchy, oversized look. Wherever you sit on that spectrum, don’t go shopping for bottoms before you’ve thoroughly audited the tops you wear most. If you wear a lot of jackets and blazers, factor these in as well. This is key to what we’re doing in this newsletter series: building a wardrobe that functions like a capsule.
If you care about ‘flattering’, consider these design details:
Side seams that curve slightly inward at the waist to create shape without the need for a tight waistband. A forward-positioned side seam along the leg will also create a streamlining illusion. It looks like this.
If you want your bum to look lifted, look for highly placed back pockets. They can help make your derrière appear fuller (which, in my case, is a very desirable outcome). Back pockets that sit too low will drag the look down.
To create shape, select a pair with darts or pleats that start from the waistband and release at hip level. If you want the opposite effect, a pressed front crease running down the leg will be lengthening. Avoid pleats if you don’t want to create volume.
Trigger warning: I’m about to brush on the subject of body types.