Fall shopping season is upon us, and I’m faced with the perennial question of where to save and where to splurge. As I strive to limit my yearly purchases to twenty or twenty-five (I’m currently on eleven) and adjust my spending around one or two big girl purchases each year (I bought a Totême shearling coat in the Spring), I want to be mindful and strategic. In today’s newsletter, I’m sharing how my willingness to pay is split across different Fall/Winter product categories: wool coats, leather jackets, knee-high boots, ankle boots, fall trousers, blazers, and knitwear.
What I’m willing to spend is usually bound by supporting brands with good ethics, sustainable practices, and great quality on one end and, well, my budget on the other.
My experience as a garment product developer helps me find the best quality I can afford. But lots of trial and error as a consumer also taught me about my willingness to wear clothes for a long time based on how much I’ve paid for them. The more I spend on a piece, the more I’ll enjoy wearing it, and the longer I’ll keep it. It’s called a sunk cost effect.
There are pieces where I know I can get good enough value by spending less and others where I would lose out if I compromised. I share the details today, along with an edit of some of the best-looking seasonal pieces I have come across. Some of these are in my cart, so if you sell them out - as is increasingly the case when I send these newsletters, I’m so very grateful that you trust my recommendations - you’d do me a solid.
Because this is a value-oriented newsletter and because I was PMS-ing and sweating profusely in my clothes this week, I have only included pieces made of natural fibre. Winter clothes are expensive enough as they are - we might as well get our money’s worth.
Wool Coats
A high-quality wool coat can be a wardrobe cornerstone for years if not decades. High-end brands offer superior craftsmanship, premium materials, and timeless designs that can result in a coat that maintains its shape, warmth, and elegance season after season.
However, some lower-end brands, like COS, have impressed me with their wool coat offerings. Some pieces strike a balance between quality and affordability that's hard to ignore. The construction may not be quite as refined, but for the price point, I've found coats with great fabric composition, clean lines, and thoughtful details that equal their more expensive counterparts.
The decision comes down to individual circumstances. If you can invest in a premium coat that you'll wear for many years, it’s worth the splurge. Suppose you live somewhere with extreme temperatures that require buying many different coats to adapt to the changing seasons. In that case, saving on a wool coat in favour of a greater budget for shearling or a great-quality puffer coat might be wise. The key is to focus on a silhouette and colour that suits your aesthetic.
My Willingness To Pay
Wool coats are the category where I find myself on the fence. There's a compelling case for investing, but I've also found great pieces at more accessible price points. The products I have featured here go from $290 to $1,190, a very wide range I’d be willing to pay. A compelling design, a great fit, and the fabric composition would stir my final decision. If I decided to spend at the top end, I would typically reign in my spending for the rest of the year.
The Bare Minimum
These are things you should expect as signs you’re getting quality regardless of the price point:
Finding a non-synthetic lining is very difficult. Look for silk, viscose, or cupro, which are more breathable than polyester. Don’t turn your nose up at a coat with no lining; if you run sweaty, it might be the best option (check out this one; I have the blazer version, and I love that it’s unlined). If there is a lining, check that it is smooth and well-sewn.
For warmth and longevity, look for the highest percentage of wool (80% at minimum unless you’re specifically looking for something lighter). Pure wool or wool blended with cashmere or silk is ideal. The weight should feel substantial.
Inspect for straight, even stitching with no loose threads. Reinforced seams (double stitching, bar tacks, etc.) at stress points (armholes, shoulders, pocket corners, and vent openings) are a plus.
Put it on a hanger and button it up. The coat should hang evenly and have a smooth drape.
Other signs of quality are lined pockets with sturdy construction, a well-shaped collar and lapel with no puckering, and securely attached buttons made of horn, shell, or high-quality plastic.