044. I Sampled And Reviewed Every Byredo Fragrance Over 60 Days
Here's A Framework To Help You Choose A Scent Made For You
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I have been looking for a new fragrance for years. As my search has been largely unsuccessful - I bought a few bottles, never building a personal connection to a scent long enough to warrant a repeat purchase - I concluded that I have been going about it the wrong way. Recently, I became inspired about fragrance, not only to find a new scent, but also to learn more about a world that intrigues me. The truth is, I know nothing about fragrance, and usually when I want to discuss a topic in the newsletter and know nothing about it, I invite an expert to explain it for us. But I can’t be the only consumer navigating the fragrance market without a degree in chemistry? I thought perhaps a fragrance review by a fragrance novice is exactly what you’d find useful. With that in mind, in late December after another failed attempt at a fragrance counter I decided to change my approach. Hurriedly smelling a dozen sticks of paper under the watchful eye of an impatient retail associate was never going work for me. I went online and found the brands that sold discovery sets that included every fragrance in their collection and bought them. I thought trying them in my own time and in the comfort of my own home might do the trick. In hindsight, I’m not sure why so few brands offer this. Most of them offer small sample sets of their ‘woody’ or ‘floral’ best-sellers but I can’t be the only one who doesn’t know what scent family they like? In today’s newsletter, I walk you through how I sampled Byredo’s 24 signature scents over two months, what I learnt, my review of every scent, and the ‘framework’ I found to choose amongst my favourites. I am currently working my way through Le Labo and a few other brands using the same process and, if you find it useful, I will continue sharing with the occasional newsletter dedicated to fragrance.
Why Byredo?
I expect many of you reading have already purchased from the brand or have plans to try it. I have admired the brand - which is pronounced ‘By-ree-do’, not ‘By-ré-do’ as I had been calling it - and its founder Ben Gorham for a long time. He founded Byredo in 2006 when his professional basketball career came to an end and takes inspirations from emotions felt during his travels, particularly to India where his mother is from. I find creativity-led specialist brands like Byredo or Le Labo much more interesting and culturally relevant to review than scents from heritage brands like Chanel, Hermès, etc. Byredo has built a cult-following and is divisive among fragrance-enthusiasts; extensively praised for the uniqueness of its creations, but sometimes also criticised for their lack of intensity and/or longevity. I go into this in details in my reviews.
The set I review below is La Grande Découverte. It includes twenty-four 2ml vials and costs $255. The purchase of each set includes a $205 voucher redeemable against any 50ml ($205) or 100ml ($290) fragrance within 6 months. Note: I paid full price for this set. This newsletter contains some affiliate links but isn’t sponsored by Byredo in any way.
The Basics
Here is some basic information about fragrance that will help you navigate this newsletter whether you want to replicate the process or get the most of my reviews.
Perfumers and fragrance chemists categorise scents in scent families. The number of scent families varies from one fragrance house to another. Some popular ones include gourmand (sweet scents), floral, amber, woody, fruity, aromatic, citrusy. Other fragrance wheels also include fresh, oriental, aquatic, green, spicy, musky, smoky, etc. As a customer, knowing which scent family (or families) you are drawn to and those you aren’t, can help you narrow down the scents you want to sample when discovering a new brand.
Fragrances are formulated by blending different layers of ingredients called ‘notes’. Every scent is traditionally composed of three categories of notes: top notes, heart notes, and base notes. The top notes (also referred to as ‘opening’) are the ones you smell immediately after spraying the fragrance and within the first few minutes. After that, the heart notes start to develop, and you will smell these for the first hour or first few hours. The base notes (also referred to as ‘drydown’) are the longer lasting notes that come out after several hours, stay on your skin for the rest of the day (if the perfume has good longevity), and linger on your clothes the following day. Understanding this is key, particularly when exploring a brand like Byredo of which every scent takes you on a journey. When choosing a perfume some people prioritise the scent of the opening while others prioritise the scent of the drydown (more on this later).
Another tidbit I found useful to understand is the distinction between skin scents and trailing scents which is determined by the intensity of the fragrance. Byredo categorises the intensity of their fragrances between ‘delicate intensity’, ‘fresh intensity’, ‘medium intensity’, and ‘intense’. A skin scent is one that only yourself and those very close to you (physically) will be privy to. A trailing scent is one that you can smell on someone even if they’re not standing right next to you, after you’ve passed them on the street, or they’ve walked past your table at a restaurant. Again, understanding this is key to choosing the right perfume for you.
The Sampling Method
When receiving the box, I refrained from spraying every inch of skin on my body with a different scent. Inspired by a few hours spent on #fragrancereddit, I devised a plan.
Round 1
I would spend the first 24 days sampling each scent individually. Each day, I chose one scent and sprayed my wrist after my morning shower. I observed how the different notes developed throughout the day and recorded (in an excel spreadsheet) how I felt and the memories they evoked. At the end of round 1, I eliminated 8 scents I didn’t want to smell again.
Round 2
The following 18 days, I repeated the previous process for the remaining 18 scents except this time I rated each scent across three criteria: 1. How pleasant I found the smell, 2. How unique and complex I found it compared to anything I’d smelled before, and 3. Longevity. At the end of this round, I eliminated another eight fragrances.
Round 3
After round 2, I was left with eight fragrances I loved. I understand that’s where most people struggle. How do you choose among your favourites? It comes down to making the difference between scents you love and scents you love for yourself, and this is what this round was about. I wouldn’t be able to make a choice without clarifying what I was looking for. I made a list of adjectives and words that described how I wanted to feel when wearing my new scent, which I then summed up into three categories and proceeded to rate each of the final scents: 1. Balanced s,weetness, I love sweet (gourmand) fragrances but my word list also included adjectives like ‘mature’, ‘womanly’ so it couldn’t be too sweet which I personally attribute to something or someone younger (this is entirely subjective), 2. Sensuality, I wanted a warm and sexy smell, 3. Intensity, I’m looking for an intense, trailing smell not a skin scent.
After I narrowed down my three favourites, I allowed myself time to wear them over a few weeks, observing their smell on my clothes and people’s reactions to it. Checking that I wasn’t going to tire of them. Eventually, I came down from three to two.
At the end of the ‘experiment’, I was able to put every fragrance in one of four categories:
Eight fragrances I eliminated in Round 1 because I really disliked their scent and didn’t want to try them again. It’s worth reiterating that this is subjective and that some of these, in fact several of these, performed really well (longevity and intensity wise).
Eight fragrances that I was curious to smell again but didn’t consider because they performed poorly, reminded me of someone else’s scent, or were disappointing in comparison to other scents in the set.
Six fragrances I loved that also performed beautifully. These are gorgeous scents I would love to smell again but ended up not fitting into my criteria and therefore not being for me, at least not for this season of life.
Two fragrances I not only loved but also found a deep connection too. I want to try samples from other brands before making any purchases, but I definitely plan to buy a bottle of each scent.
Things I Learnt In This Process
Byredo fragrances, more than any others I have tried, take you on an olfactive journey. Apart for a few exceptions, like Sundazed or Eleventh Hour, which stay fairly consistent, most of Byredo’s fragrances are layered so that you smell something different after the first spray versus an hour later versus four hours later. A more accurate way to rate them would have been to rate each of the categories of notes separately. In several fragrances, such as 1996 or Slow Dance, I really disliked the top notes but loved the base notes. Equally, each ‘phase’ has its own level of intensity, you might find that some scents like Mojave Ghost disappears from your skin after an hour only for the base notes to come through later on and last through the end of the day. For this reason, you cannot sample a scent at a perfume counter and make a decision on the spot. The Byredo fragrance I came close to buying when shopping IRL, Rose of No Man’s Land, is a scent I still love but, now also know, doesn’t suit me. The first few minutes of a scent living on your skin gives you only a minuscule window into its olfactory personality. You could easily end up with a fragrance you hate.
There are endless debates online about what matters most when choosing a fragrance between the first impression notes and the base notes. This is a deeply personal preference. I find base notes more important but I would still not buy one a perfume that gave me a bad first impression. At a different time in my life, say, when I would keep a bottle of perfume in my bag and spray it just before walking into a date or a meeting, I might have selected a scent based on top notes.
Please don’t be offended if I have bad things to say about the fragrance you wear and love. Don’t go purchasing a fragrance just because I rave about it either. Fragrance is deeply personal. In fact, you’ll notice I often refer to memories when describing the fragrances. On Reddit, Sundazed is referred to as the ‘cotton candy fragrance’ when for me it evoked the scent of a shop I worked in when I was in college. Gypsy Water is the only Byredo fragrance I’d owned before buying this discovery set and I thought I had nailed describing what it smells like - a lemon and vanilla cupcake served with a hot cup of Earl Grey tea - but I saw someone online, who seems to know more about fragrance than me, say that it reminds them of the smell of dust (??).
In addition to this, the same scent can smell differently on different people’s skins due to how it interacts with the pH within it. One of my sisters and one of my close friends both wear Mojave Ghost. My sister smokes and drinks alcohol, two things that affect skin pH, and my friend doesn’t. The fragrance smells different on one to what it smells on the other.
Pay attention to the level of intensity each fragrance was designed to have because spraying a lot of a fragrance designed to be a skin scent doesn’t turn it into a trailing scent. The only thing that will happen if you do that is you will get through an expensive bottle in the space of two months, like I did with Gypsy Water. Something to keep in mind if you fall in love with one of Byredo’s medium intensity scents like fan-favourite Bal d’Afrique.
The same person might get different impressions of the same fragrance on different days. The first time I tested Mixed Emotions, I smelled a strong synthetic scent of wood fire and the scent disappeared from my skin within fifteen minutes. The second time, I smelled a sickly-sweet blackcurrant scent that lingered. I loved Rose Noir the first time I tried it and hated it the second time. When choosing a fragrance, take your time; I spent a week wearing the fragrance that had been my favourite in Rounds 1 and 2 and ended up liking it slightly less.
Through this process, I also learnt about my fragrance likes and dislikes. Two of my three favourite fragrances share the same base notes despite being from different scent families. I detest powdery scents. And I hated almost every fragrance with violet heart notes and pepper top notes.
Byredo La Grande Decouverte: Reviews
Eleventh Hour
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Fruity
Top Notes: Bergamot, Ban Timmur
Heart Notes: Rum, Carrot Seeds, Wild Fig
Base Notes: Tonka Beans, Cashmere Woods
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: Wow. This is the most straightforward scent to describe, it smells like a rich, sweet, delicious chai latte. Not your average chai latte though; it is rich in ripe fruits and decadent spices. When you first spray it, you smell spiced and woody notes. It then develops into something strong and boozy, not in a sharp alcoholic way, but in a delectable warm spiced rum way. It’s a quintessentially wintery fragrance. Everyone around me that tried it agreed that it smells stunning, it has so much depth and is really ingenious… the question is do you want to smell like a chai latte?
ROUND 2: Performance is excellent. The scent remains rich and intense for 12+ hours.Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5Longevity: 5/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 5/5
ROUND 3: This would be in my Top 3 but my husband veto-ed it because it apparently smells exactly like what his grandpa smelled like. I never met his grandpa, at least now I know he smelled great. I don’t usually concede easily but I’m ok with not smelling like chai latte. If you buy this, please invite me over.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 4/5Intensity: 5/5
Black Saffron
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Amber
Top Notes: Juniper Berries, Pomelo, Saffron
Heart Notes: Black Violet, Cristal Rose, Accord Cuir
Base Notes: Blonde Woods, Raspberry, Vetiver
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: An extremely heady and sophisticated scent. I smell sharp berries and bitter saffron on a background of strong powdery violet and rose. It’s so intense that it came close to giving me a headache. From the get-go, this was so far from what I like. It evoked what, as a child, I would consider a ‘grown up’ perfume. It smells very classic. It’s worth mentioning that I discussed it with a friend of mine who’s a fragrance founder (I will interview her for the newsletter soon) and she adores this scent.
Pleasant: 1/5
Unique/Complex: 3/5
Longevity: 4/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 5/5
Eyes Closed
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Amber
Top Notes: Cardamom, Cinnamon
Heart Notes: Carrot, Ginger, Orris Butter
Base Notes: Papyrus, Patchouli
Intensity Level: Not disclosed
REVIEW
ROUND 1: Very spicy from the onset. The top notes of cardamom and cinnamon reminded me of Eleventh Hour but this is sharper and less sweet. It feels more raw, less complex, and less warm. It smells like warming a cinnamon stick and cardamon pods in the palm of your hand. I was looking forward to smelling the papyrus and patchouli base, but the drydown turned out a little flat and soapy on my skin. I didn't hate it, but I didn’t feel a connection to it and it felt like a lesser version of another scent I loved so I didn’t smell it again.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 2/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 3/5
Mumbai Noise
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Amber
Top Notes: Davana
Heart Notes: Coffee, Tonka Beans
Base Notes: Labdanum, Sandalwood, Agarwood
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The opening is very green and fresh, then a sharp leathery scent develops. You can definitely smell the coffee. The drydown is a lot subtler than I expected it to be and has got an earthy quality to it. It's very layered and complex, a scent with a lot of character.
ROUND 2: I have never been a coffee drinker and the smell of coffee evokes morning exhaustion and cigarette breath so needless to say, I didn't connect with this fragrance. Interestingly, I couldn’t pick up the intensity, I would only get a faint earthy smell, but my husband would smell it the second he entered the room. He loves woody fragrances, and out of the options in this set, fell in love with this one (he does like the smell of coffee) and plans to buy it for himself. On him, I don’t dislike it as much.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 3/5
Animalique
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Amber
Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon
Heart Notes: Suede, Violet, Mimosa
Base Notes: Amber, Sandalwood, Tobacco Leaves
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: This scent, released by Byredo just last year, is my favourite. Not to be dramatic, but it makes me emotional. Of the top and heart notes, what comes through on my skin is the suede, a velvety, rich, warm, comforting leather note. The name for this scent suits it perfectly; it has a sensual, almost sultry, and organic feel. It’s beautifully complex with subtle accents of smoke. The amber and sandalwood drydown is, for those who like those scents, pure magic.
ROUND 2: It warms and blends with the skin, but its intensity doesn’t fade.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5
Longevity: 4/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
ROUND 3: I felt an intimate connection to this smell the first time I tried it. My sister, who came to stay with me this month and tried the fragrances with me, smelled it and said 'this smells like you'. I am completely enthralled by it and it is exactly what I want to smell like. Compared to my other top choice, which feels more like a trailing scent, this is not as intense.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 5/5
Intensity: 4/5
De Los Santos
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Aromatic
Top Notes: Clary Sage, Mirabelle
Heart Notes: Orris, Ciste Oil
Base Notes: Musks, Ambroxan, Palo Santo
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: This scent is completely different from any other perfume in the set. It's luminous, aromatic, and earthy. Green without being floral. Fresh without being citrusy. It also has a slight leathery background. It threw me back to Mezcal tasting in Oaxaca.
ROUND 2: I really liked this scent even though it’s nothing like what I was looking for. It’s very interesting but unfortunately didn’t perform well on my skin and disappeared completely within a few hours.
Pleasant: 4/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 1/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 3/5
Sunday Cologne
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Citrus
Top Notes: Bergamot, Cardamom, Star Anise
Heart Notes: Incense, Geranium, Lavender
Base Notes: Moss, Patchouli, Vetiver
Intensity Level: Fresh Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: A very crisp, fresh, citrusy opening with a tonic effect. You can also smell the bergamot. It smells like a windy day at sea on the Amalfi coast (not that I’ve ever been). Whilst the opening was lovely, it developed into something that reminded me of any run-of-the-mill men’s vetiver cologne without much character. Compared to other Byredo fragrances, I found this a little lacklustre. If you like citrus, Sundazed has more sweetness, warmth, and depth.
ROUND 2: The first time I tried it, it disappeared from my skin completely after an hour, the second time it lasted until the end of the day but without any real intensity.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 1/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 3/5
Bal d’Afrique
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: African Marigold, Bergamot, Buchu
Heart Notes: Cyclamen, Violet
Base Notes: Moroccan Cedarwood, Vetiver
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: This best-selling scent is the one I was most excited to try and it did not disappoint. It’s ridiculously delicious. Whilst classified as a floral scent, it feels very gourmand. The first spray smells like a decadent grapefruit-scented soufflé. Then, I get ripe, juicy, sticky pineapple that gets sweeter, almost piña colada-like. The vetiver base notes give the drydown a green, clean, and fresh element. It’s very light and would make a perfect fragrance for someone who loves sweet scents or for a first perfume for someone young who wouldn’t suit something too intense.
ROUND 2: People rave about this scent online but it also has a reputation for having really poor longevity and disappears on many people skin’s almost immediately. I could not love this more but I unfortunately have to report the same thing.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 1/5
Does It Last All Day? No
ROUND 3: My sister, who already wears Mojave Ghost, fell in love with this and bought a bottle. I wouldn’t blame anyone for buying it anyway because it’s just that good, but it will cost you as you will need to spray it frequently and the bottle won’t last long.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 2/5
Intensity: 2/5
Sundazed
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Lemon, Mandarin
Heart Notes: Neroli, Jasmine Sambac
Base Notes: Musks
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The opening is delicately citrusy with the unique smell of mandarin. It's a softer, more layered opening than Sunday Cologne. The neroli and jasmine sambac turn it sweet and fresh. An ideal scent for someone who favours both sweet and citrusy fragrances. It’s incredibly beautiful and performs superbly. Objectively, one of the best fragrances in the set.
ROUND 2: It performs so well for such a delicate scent. It smelled the same on my wrist after twelve hours as it did after two. It could be a good alternative a good alternative for someone who loves Bal d’Afrique but a scent with better longevity (they don’t smell the same at all but are both light gourmand scents). People refer to it online as a ‘cotton candy scent’. It does smells like sugar but in my opinion that reference omits the beautiful citrusy element.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 5/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
ROUND 3: In college, I worked retail for a kidswear brand called Bonpoint. If you’re a parent with deep pockets, or with friends with deep pockets, you may know the brand have smelled their perfume. This scent reminds me of it. I could not rate or this fragrance more highly and it brought back happy memories but I would want to wear something that represents new territory.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 2/5
Intensity: 4/5
Flowerhead
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Angelica Seeds, Lingonberry, Sicilian Lemon
Heart Notes: Dewy Tuberose, Rose Petals, Wild Jasmine Sambac
Base Notes: Fresh Amber, Suede
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: I smelled this for the first time three days after receiving the set and became spell-bound. At first, it smells like a fresh bouquet of white flowers. The tuberose stands out as does the wild jasmine sambac which is more sultrier and muskier than regular jasmine. What seduced me is the combination of floral freshness and subtle sweetness in the drydown (from the amber). It has great depth to it and is warm and seductive which I have rarely come across in floral scents.
ROUND 2: It performs extraordinarily well. The intensity shines through for 12 hours.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5Longevity: 5/5Does It Last All Day? Yes
ROUND 3: Early on, I called this my favourite Byredo fragrance. I wore it out and about and was obsessed. My family and friends liked it but said it didn’t ‘feel like me’. Interestingly, it has the same heart and base notes (amber and suede) as my other favourite scent, Animalique. I wore the sample until the last drop and eventually decided I would hold out on buying for now. Whilst I never grew tired of the other two, this one did feel a little heady at times. I will order more samples of it with my full-size bottles so I can keep trying it and make a final decision.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 5/5Intensity: 5/5
La Tulipe
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Cyclamen, Freesia, Rhubarb
Heart Notes: Tulip
Base Notes: Blonde Woods, Vetiver
Intensity Level: Delicate Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: People say this smells like Chanel Number 5. I can neither confirm nor deny as I don't know what Chanel Number 5 smells like. It's the white flower antithesis to my love for Flowerhead. It has the same flower shop effect and some sweet accords but it is incredibly powdery which makes this perfume one I could never wear. It also smells a lot greener and a little soapy. I can see why some people would choose this as it feels like a sophisticated, old-Hollywood, classic, almost dramatic fragrance. Despite the brand calling out a ‘delicate intensity’, I found really intense.
Pleasant: 1/5
Unique/Complex: 2/5
Longevity: 4/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 4/5
Blanche
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Aldehyde, Rose Centifolia
Heart Notes: Peony, Violet
Base Notes: Musks, Sandalwood
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: Byredo's most controversial fragrance. It’s one of the brand's best sellers and one that fragrance enthusiasts love to spill ink over. You either have a cult-like adoration for it or are repulsed by it. I am the latter. It’s got a reputation for smelling like freshly laundered sheets, which sounds great right? But I got heart and base notes of decaying soap and base notes of plaster. It's also extremely powdery. I could not tell the scent of the first spray from that of a chemical window cleaning spray. The final drydown isn't exactly awful (I like sandalwood) but nothing that makes up for the rest.
Pleasant: 0/5
Unique/Complex: 2/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 2/5
Rose of No Man’s Land
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Pink Pepper, Turkish Rose Petals
Heart Notes: Raspberry Blossom, Turkish Rose Absolute
Base Notes: Amber, Papyrus
Intensity Level: Delicate Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The opening is a delicate rose scent. I tend to get bothered by peppery smells but here it simply adds depth. It’s a light red rose scent that is slightly spiced. Surprisingly fresh and not too overpowering like the other rose scents.ROUND 2: It's one of the only scents which I find stays consistent throughout the day - just a lovely red rose scent - no bad surprises with this one. It has fabulous longevity.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5Longevity: 5/5Does It Last All Day? Yes
ROUND 3: This is the scent I had picked out on opening alone. The scent of rose is so specific and if you love it, this is head and shoulders above any other rose scents I have ever smelled. A superb fragrance that I am not picking only because I like rose only as much as the next gal so it doesn’t fit my fragrance profile.
Balanced Sweetness: 1/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 3/5Intensity: 4/5
Young Rose
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Ambrette Seeds, Sichuan Pepper
Heart Notes: Orris, Damascena Rose (oil)
Base Notes: Musks, Ambroxan
Intensity Level: Delicate Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: Take this short review with a pinch of salt as I wasn’t able to sample this fragrance properly; there was something in the top notes (I suspect the Sichuan pepper) that I found downright terrible, and I cleaned it off as it started making me feel queasy. If that helps, before I did, I smelled something quite fruity? I later tested it on my knee so I could still give you an idea of intensity and longevity.
Pleasant: 0/5
Unique/Complex: 3/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 2/5
Inflorescence
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Pink Freesia, Rose Petals
Heart Notes: Lily of the Valley, Magnolia
Base Notes: Fresh Jasmine
Intensity Level: Delicate Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: I expected to like this after loving Flowerhead but it was a huge let down. The heart notes smelled so bad on my skin that I suspect it reacted badly with the pH of my skin or the shower gel I had used. Disappointing also because it almost completely disappeared within minutes. I wouldn't be surprised to hear more people report back with poor longevity, although the brand does disclaim a 'delicate intensity'. It left a barely-there note of jasmine, which I did like. This was the first of many Byredo's fragrances with top and heart notes I disliked and base notes I found pleasant. Anecdotally, at dinner last night, a close friend told me she used to wear it and stopped because her boyfriend was repulsed by it. Ah!Pleasant: 1/5
Unique/Complex: 2/5Longevity: 1/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 1/5
Rose Noir
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Floral
Top Notes: Cardamom, Freesia, Grapefruit, Red Berries
Heart Notes: Lily of the Valley, Raspberry, Rose Damascena, Violet, Jasmine
Base Notes: Moss, Musks, Patchouli, Cistus Labdanum
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: Upon spraying it, you notice the fruity scent of red berries. It then opens onto delicate woody and leathery notes. You can also smell the raspberry mixing with the rose scent in the background. It makes for a complex fragrance which would delight someone who loves both rose and woody scents.
ROUND 2: The first time I tried this scent I really liked it, the second time, I really didn’t and found it too fruity. It mixed oddly with my skin.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 3/5
Super Cedar
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Rose Petals
Heart Notes: Virginian Cedarwood
Base Notes: Haitian Vetiver, Silk Musk
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: It smells good. In the way of a hundred non-descript fragrances at a men’s perfume counter. The first spray is quite seductive and fresh. You can smell the cedar and rose unmistakably follow each, followed by the musk, all within two minutes. The drydown is just very meh. It doesn’t evoke anything and doesn’t last.
ROUND 2: I’m back on the boat on the Amalfi coast with a very good-looking Italian man only to realise half an hour later that he has a stupefyingly dull personality.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 0/5
Longevity: 1/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 3/5
Slow Dance
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Opopanax
Heart Notes: Geranium, Labdanum, Violet
Base Notes: Patchouli, Vanilla
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The first spray of this is definitely unique, almost odd. It has a powdery, oaky scent. Within five minutes, all I am getting is a whiff of Play-Doh. I already knew I couldn’t forgive but I was still keen on smelling the patchouli and vanilla base and indeed it was gorgeous.
ROUND 2: In true Byredo fashion, this scent takes you on a journey. The base has got nothing to do with the top and heart notes. It is undeniably unique and the fragrance performs well as the base notes shine through intensely for many hours.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5
Longevity: 4/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 4/5
Mojave Ghost
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Ambrette, Nesberry
Heart Notes: Magnolia, Sandalwood, Violet
Base Notes: Cedarwood, Musks, Vetiver
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: I smell something both sweet and green but also slightly sharp like a yellow fruit. I find this scent, another bestseller from the brand, completely unique and unlike anything I have smelled before. The heart notes are more floral. It feels very whimsical, almost fairy-like.
ROUND 2: I never intended to buy this fragrance for myself as two people close to me already wear it and I identify it as theirs. It had a very delicate intensity on me but I have smelled it in other people’s trail. Pleasant: 4/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5Longevity: 4/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 4/5
Gypsy Water
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Bergamot, Juniper Berries, Lemon, Pepper
Heart Notes: Incense, Orris, Pine Needle
Base Notes: Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla
Intensity Level: Medium Intensity
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The only Byredo perfume I'd owned prior to this. Its smell is so distinct - I describe it as the smell of a lemon vanilla cupcake that you'd serve with a hot cup of Earl Grey tea (the bergamot).
ROUND 2: It's so delectable and I will never not love it. I have not purchased it again because: 1. It's a gourmand scent, beautifully sweet, but it missed some key dimensions I was searching for (more intensity and something more sensual), 2. I went through the bottle in less than two months. I sprayed it very liberally, learning you can’t make a delicate scent smell strong by using lots of it. Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 3/5
Oud Immortel
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Incense, Cardamom
Heart Notes: Brazilian Rosewood, Papyrus, Patchouli
Base Notes: Moss, Tobacco Leaves, Oud
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The top notes smelled strongly of resin and myrrh. An extremely intense and very regal scent. For those who want a heady strong classic perfume oud is a great ingredient to seek out. The cardamom and incense combination made me think of a Christmas scent. This wasn't for me at all, the opposite of what I like, so I didn't smell it again. Pleasant: 0/5
Unique/Complex: 1/5Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 5/5
Bibliothèque
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Plum, Cinnamon
Heart Notes: Leather Accord, Violet
Base Notes: Birch Woods, Patchouli, Vanilla
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: You immediately smell the leather-bound books. Its spicy, warm, and the vanilla is intensely present. Plum and cinnamon are also prominent. It smells like a sweet liquor. It’s a sweeter, infinitely more complex, subtle, and unique alternative to other woody scents in the range like Super Cedar, and more versatile and genderless than Gypsy Water and Mojave Ghost (which I still can't believe are classified as woody). If you like the idea of a spicy boozy wintery scent but don't like the idea of smelling like a hot drink, this is a more palatable alternative to Eleventh Hour.
ROUND 2: What’s perhaps even more remarkable than how good it smells is how this scent performs: it is intense, lasts forever, and definitely trails.
Pleasant: 5/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5
Longevity: 5/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
ROUND 3: I wanted to adore it and I did. The idea of wearing a scent with this name is divine to a writer. This is one of my two favourite scents and I am buying a bottle for sure.
Balanced Sweetness: 5/5
Sensuality/Warmth: 5/5
Intensity: 5/5
Mixed Emotions
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Blackcurrant, Mate
Heart Notes: Violet Leaves, Ceylon Black Tea
Base Notes: Birch Woods, Papyrus
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The top notes of blackcurrant are very strong and almost sickly sweet. The scent then turns smoky and the intensity disappears. The base notes reminded me of the synthetic wood fire smell of a board game I used to play as a child. I could also smell the earthiness of the mate which made me think of dirt. Perhaps there is something else here that more refined noses will pick up but all in all, I found it very odd. Not for me at all. It also didn’t last very long.
Pleasant: 1/5
Unique/Complex: 4/5
Longevity: 1/5
Does It Last All Day? No
Intensity: 3/5
1996
BRAND INFORMATION
Scent Family: Woody
Top Notes: Black Pepper, Juniper Berries
Heart Notes: Leather Accord, Orris, Violet
Base Notes: Black Amber, Patchouli, Vanilla
Intensity Level: Intense
REVIEW
ROUND 1: The top notes smell of gin and black pepper. So much so that it tickled my nostrils and (almost imperceptibly) irritated my skin. It's an extremely atypical fragrance for a unique individual. The leather accords in the heart are very strong. This ends up smelling like an entirely different perfume with a relatively soft drydown of amber, patchouli, and vanilla.
ROUND 2: Another Byredo perfume with an opening I hated and a drydown I loved. It’s interesting but I can’t agree with a fragrance that makes me sneeze.
Pleasant: 3/5
Unique/Complex: 5/5
Longevity: 3/5
Does It Last All Day? Yes
Intensity: 3/5
I’m one of those with a scent allergy that can’t wear synthetic perfumes, but these sound lovely! Wish I could
This is so impressive in its methodology! And can’t wait to hear about your le labo experience!!! Will you also do this with the Replica scents??