021. STYLE SUBCULTURES: Dressing For Fall
A Capsule Wardrobe? Yes. But One That Looks Like You.
I received many requests for this newsletter as a follow-up to the summer edition I published a few months ago, and I was more than happy to oblige. The purpose of this newsletter series is to demonstrate that you can build a wearable and efficient wardrobe and still look like yourself. It is the anti-‘must-haves’ or anti-‘wardrobe essentials’ feature, as these should be unique to anyone building a wardrobe true to their own personal style.
I chose five different aesthetics for today’s feature: modern classic, nineties-inspired, minimalist, eclectic, and a sophisticated/feminine. These are to be used as examples of how different capsule wardrobes can look. Each capsule is made up of two bottoms, two tops, a piece of knitwear, a blazer, a light coat, two pairs of shoes, a piece of jewelry, a bag, and a belt. That’s over sixteen different outfit combinations, showing that you really don’t need much if you put a lot of thought into shopping and styling each piece. If your style is not represented here, please leave a comment; I am happy to send you a few personalised suggestions. As usual, I recommend giving your existing wardrobe a thorough audit before you consider buying anything new.
As is the case with all my shopping guides, everything linked on this page is made of natural fibers or sustainable fabrics like Tencel (with two exceptions clearly noted below), so you can get the best quality, longevity, and value for the money you spend.
I wrote the commentary for each edit in the haze of an aggressive end-of-summer flu. I did not want to delay sending it, so, for better or for worse, you’re getting a slightly more off-the-cuff shopping commentary from me than I am used to, with insights into my own shopping habits or observations. This edit includes a few pieces from my personal wishlist, which I have marked with a ‘*’.
1. Modern Classic
The blazer, handbag, boots, and necklace aren’t asterisked but only because I already got them.
This was my first time shopping from Anine Bing after reading mixed reviews over the years, and I couldn’t have been more pleased when this blazer arrived. It is unlined, which is sometimes misconstrued as a sign of poor quality. In fast fashion, linings are often foregone to cut corners. Here, it’s nothing less than a clever design decision; the cashmere feels really soft against the skin, and the blazer doesn’t really need a lining. I hadn’t noticed it was unlined when I bought it, and it was the best surprise for me particularly. TMI: I have mentioned it before, but I sweat profusely, which can be tricky with blazers and outerwear, as the only thing I can handle is unlined or a silk lining, which is extremely rare and extremely expensive (even The Row doesn’t use silk lining). Synthetics linings, which aren’t breathable, make matters worse. If you have the same issue, I know some of you do as we discussed it over DMs, you will appreciate this. I’d say the cut is more boxy than oversized, and as a result, it is quite short, which I love. It might well be the first blazer I ever bought that I don’t need to alter. For reference, I got the size XXS; I am very short, 5ft0. The shoulders are definitely a little extra. A large number of pieces in their collection display a 100% natural fabric composition, which we love to see. They also seem to have a core collection with limited amounts of seasonal newness, which is also really mindful. Their customer service was excellent. By now you might be wondering, but this glowing review isn’t sponsored in any way: I paid full price for the blazer, but I really appreciate when brands do things well. Let me know in the comments if any of you have shopped from Anine Bing before; I am curious to know whether your feedback is consistent with mine.
Once in a blue moon, you come across a piece that ticks all your boxes, and this JW Anderson bag was it for me. When it comes to shopping for handbags, I am laser-focused. My criteria are either structurally interesting or a vibrant color. This one was both, with my obsession with green and this particular shade being the cherry on top. I first came across it when I was in Paris in May and instantly fell in love, but as my rule for making only sensible purchases is to hold off for a few months, I waited, which paid off as it was discounted to a third of its price in July. The next bag on my wishlist is featured in another edit below.
The Dallas boots were a big investment for me and I needed to check I wasn’t looking at them through my trend-tinted glasses (read about trend-tinted glasses here). As a result, they lived on my wishlist for over a year. I got the black leather with crystals version (a couple sizes of these are left here and here). Again, these fit my criteria for ‘accessories with a twist’; I tried the version without the crystals too and it didn’t work for me. I scored them for a whopping discount on the Khaite website during their July sale. It was the first time that hitting the ‘Notify Me When Back In Stock’ button paid off as they were out of sotck when I signed up for the notification, and I received an alert a mere hour later. I expected the small heel to be destabilising but it isn’t. I had watched many reviews and the overall consensus was that you should size down. I ended up doing the opposite; I am usually a 36 or 36.5, and felt more comfortable in the 37. These will have great resale value if I ever decide to resell them, so I am waiting to be back in London to bring them to my cobbler to have the soles protected. But after that, prepare to be sick of me.